Bring a large pot of very well-salted water to a boil. Cook the rigatoni until just shy of al dente. Reserve at least 1 cup of pasta water, then drain.

In a wide pan over medium heat, add the pancetta and cook until the fat renders and the pancetta is lightly crisp. Remove the pancetta with a slotted spoon and set aside, leaving the fat in the pan.

Add the butter and a small drizzle of olive oil to the rendered pancetta fat. Once melted, add the shallot and cook until soft and glossy, not browned.

Add the garlic and cook just until fragrant.

Stir in the tomato paste and let it cook down for a few minutes until deeper in color and slightly sweet.

If you want heat, add a pinch of red pepper flakes or Calabrian chili here.

Pour in the vodka and let it simmer briefly, just until the alcohol cooks off.

Lower the heat and stir in the heavy cream until the sauce is silky and smooth.

If you’re substituting some milk for cream, add the milk gradually here until the sauce is the consistency you like.

Season with sugar, a pinch of salt, and a small amount of black pepper. Taste and adjust.

Return the pancetta to the pan and let it gently simmer in the sauce for a minute to rewarm and infuse.

Add the rigatoni along with a splash of reserved pasta water and toss until the sauce coats the pasta and loosens to the right consistency, adding more pasta water as needed.

Remove from the heat, finish with freshly grated parm, and toss again until glossy.

Transfer to a serving bowl

Tear burrata over the top

Add fresh basil

Drizzle with good olive oil

Finish with more parm